Places of Interest In & Around Ranthambhore National Park in Sawai Madhopur Town--

Places of Interest In & Around Ranthambhore National Park in Sawai Madhopur   ---

Ranthambhore National Park---

It is situated in the Sawai Madhopur district of south eastern Rajasthan. It is one of the largest National Parks, covering an area of 392 sq. kms, about 110 km north-east of Kota and 140 km south-east of Jaipur, which is also the nearest airport.
It lies at the edge of a plateau and is bounded to the north by Banas river and to the south by the Chambal river.It is named after the historic Ranthambhore fortress which lies within the park.

Ranthambhore was established as the Sawai Madhopur Game Sanctuary in 1955 by the Government of India and was declared one of the Project Tiger reserves in 1973 . Ranthambhore became a national park in 1980.

In 1984, the adjacent forests were declared the Sawai Man Singh Sanctuary and Keladevi Sanctuary, and in 1991 the tiger reserve was enlarged to include the Sawai Man Singh and Keladevi sanctuaries.

Ranthambhor Fort---

one of the most impregnable fortress of India, is situated on an isolated peak, about 480 metres above sea-level, in 262' N. and 7628' E., in the Sawai-Madhopur district of Rajasthan. It lies at a distance of about 15 kilometres north-east of Sawai Madhopur Railway Satation on the Delhi-Ratlam section of the Western Railway and is approachable upto the foot of the hill by a fine metalled road.

The name of the fort is derived from the combined name of two hills situated close to each other, namely the Ran and the Thambhor. The fort proper, with the palaces and other buildings therein, is built on the Thambhor hill. Most of these buildings, except a few, viz. the big mosque, a tomb and a few mansions, are in a dilapidated condition.

Due to its unique positon, natural surroundings and massive fortification-wall strengthened by towers and bastions, the fort had always posed a challenge to and been a matter of prestige for the invading monarch Earlier occupied by the Jadon and Chauhan Rajputs, it never fully submitted to Delhi authority: it was seized by Iltutmish in 1226 A.D., again by Jalau'd Din Khalji in 1291 A.D., and finally by Alau'd-Din in 1301 A.D. Only the latter's occupation was more lasting.

At the close of the 14th century or little thereafter, taking advantage of the tottering Delhi Sultanate in the wake of the invasion of Timur, it was annexed by the Malwa Sultan but it remained a bone of contention between the Khaljis of Malwa and the Maharanas of Mewar. It was finally wrested from the former by Rana Sangram, popularly known as Rana Sanga.. However, after the defeat of the latter in 1528 A.D., it came under the authority of Mughal emperor Babur. But shortly, again, it passed into the hands of the Rajput chief of Bundi, Rai Surjan Singh Hada. It was from him that Babur's grandson Akbar finally captured it in March 1569 A.D. Since then it remained in the Mughal hands, as the headquarters of a Sarkar in the Suba of Ajmer till the beginning of the downfall of the Mughal empire.
Under the Mughal , particular under Akbar and Jahangir Ranthambhore seems to have enjoyed great importance.There is a record of Akbar's visit to the fort on the 24th April 1577A.D.and his having reposed there in the place of Rai Surjan.Jahangir had also camped here towards the close of 1618 A.D.
Madho Singh was successfull in his peace making mission for which the Emperor Ahamad Shah rewarded him by granting the fort of Ranthambhore on December 19, 1754 (Jadunath Sarkar ).

The Fort had many buildings inside, of which only a have survived due to the ravages of wars and time.
Among the remaining ruins are Naulakha Gate, Hathi Pol, Darvesh Ki Dargah, Badal Mahal, Hammir Mahal, Rani Mahal, Padamala Pond, Ganesh Temple, Jain Temple, Battis Khambhon Ki Chatri. Delhi Gate, Raghunath Temple, Supari Mahal, Raj Mandir, Saghi's Haveli, Satpole Gate, Sukhsagar Pond, Gupt Ganga, Jaunra, Bhonra, Shiva Chatri, Suraj Pol, Phansi Ghar, Saments Bhawan, Shiva Temple, Laxmi Narain Temple, Rani Tank, and Hammir Court.

Jogi Mahal---

It is a forest rest house, some 250 years old, and commands the view of Padam Talao or the lotus lake on one side and the ramparts of Ranthambhore Fort on the other.

Adjacent  to it is one of the India's largest banyan trees , fondly known as the "walking tree " because over the years it has sent out so many branches thereby increasing it's shade area .This rest house was closed to  the public in 1992.  To vist  it  requires speared permission of the Deputy field Director, Core Area.

Gilai Sagar and Mansarovar water Reservoirs ---

Gilai sagar , Mansarovar and several other water bodies in and outside the park attract thousands o migratory birds during winter and are especially exciting for bird-watchers. Sometimes in these areas you can even find a herd of black buck, the rarely seen antelope of this arid region. People worship this antelope as Krishnamarig or Lord Krishna's  deer for its colouring is dark like Lord Krishna. Even though it lives around villages and  often devastates field it  is held sacred and never attacked.

Bakaula ---

An evergreen area of Jamun Groves , lots of running streams, it is a favourite place for tigers to cool off the height of summer. This is an excellent place to watch sambar  deer , especially when they are in rut , between November & February .The sambar in Ranthambhore a favourite prey of the tiger, and  Bakaula is famous for endless tiger kills

Kachida --

A valley of Flame of the Forest trees that turns deep red towards the end of March. Around the Kachida waterhole you can find  concentrations of spotted deer
whose rutting season last throughout the year. It is also well known for its two resident leopards that frequent this area. This is rather special as leopards are very difficult to sight in tiger country.

Talao or Lakes-

Park has four big lakes i .e .Rajbag ,Padam Talao, Mullick Talao ( Malik Talao ) ,and Lahpur .There are two big reservoirs on the periphery of National Park i.e.Mansarovar and Gilai Sagar.They store most of the runoff water from National park .All these Lakes and Talao harbour a large variety of wild animals likeTigers ,Panther , Caracal , Sambhar ,Chital ,Blue Bull etc.Old crumbling walls , ruined pavilions ,wells and other ancient structures stand witness to the region's glorious past.

Raj Bagh and Mullick Talao (Lakes)-- --

The pictureque situation of Rajbag and mullick Talao attracts lots of tourist every year. There is a old summer palace in the Rajbag Talao known as Rajbag Palace now in ruins, used by Tiger and Panther for their breeding and hunting. Lotus flower also enhances the beauty of Rajbag Talao. Mornings and Evenings are very charming at Lakes. Rajbag was the summer palace for the rulers of Ranthambhore. This is a beauty of bygone era, once witnessing the princes, princesses and queens enjoying the tranquillity and beauty of the nature in the midst of the rising sun, the scenic beauty of the national park is enhanced by valleys and plateaus namely Kachida, Kamaldhar Nalghati, Soleshowar, Lahpur, Bakola, Lakarda, Semli , Jailkho, Oodikho and other plateaus like Ran, Guda Dang , Indala Dang. Due to favourable conditions like ample water, food and prey species makes it ideal for breeding in valleys and Khoos. It is home of many herbivores and carnivores.
Twice a year in October & May the Rajbagh Talao is carpeted with lotus flowers and is filled with lotus-eaters. It has the highest density of sambar , deer and marsh crocodile. This lake has a series of backwater pools that are used in the monsoon by crocodiles who lay their eggs in large holes in the banks. Scores of young crocodiles can be seen in these pools in October and November. Rajbagh is also frequented by birds of prey like the crested serpent eagle, the grey headed fish eagle, the osprey, the crested hawk eagle and the brown fish owl. The back pools are like little nurseries for chital and sambar whose young ones can be found here in large numbers with their mothers.

Phuta Kot--

The most dramatic cliffs of Ranthambhore are found here. Some call it the Colorado of the area.

The Banyan Tree at Jogi Mahal --

Hundreds of vultures can be found nesting in these high cliffs. A few kilometers away is Guda where you can see good populations of the Nilgai or the bluebull. Their courtship takes place between November and February and you can watch the clash of two big males as they fight for the attentions of the female.

Highest Point--

This point gives you a virtual 'aerial' view of the Park and is well worth the time it takes getting there. You can see the dramatic hill ranges of the Aravallis & the Vindhyas from here. On this drive you might also see the Indian gazelle or Chinkara, which is quite rare in Ranthambhore. These deer are very shy and are normally found in twos and threes. They are the most elegant and dainty antelopes to be found in this area.

Semli and Berda --

The road branches after Lakarda and if you take the road to the right, within a kilometer, you will come across breathtaking landscapes that seem to stretch till infinity. When you reach a T-junction you have the Berda.

Valley on your right and the Semli Valley on your left. And both are spectacular! Both these valleys have been used frequently in the past by tigresses raising their litters. The terrain has numerous nallahs or dried. streambeds, and excellent protective cover for young tigers to shelter in. The grass around attracts good populations of deer and is vital in providing food to the young tigers.

Khemsa Kund--

The road to Khemsa Kund circles the side of the Fort that was always attacked over the last thousand years. Khemsa Kund itself is an ancient water tank and well worth seeing. According to tradition there was an underground tunnel that led from the Fort to Khemsa Kund. The Forts residents used this in times of drought for the Kund always had water.

Kukraj Ghati--

After you pass Rajbagh Lake you start climbing and cross Ghazal Hill till reach the peak of Kukraj. From there you get an unbelievable view of National Park. This drive through  the plateaus of Ranthambhore is very  good for bear sightings and they be found rummaging around termite hills. It is in this area that some of encounters between tigers and bears  have been witnessed.

Lahpur Valley--

A large flat grassland, surrounded by sharp ridges, makes this a relatively undisturbed area and very good viewing deer, antelope and tigers .There is a small lake that has water till March and attracts a large amount of birds including the pelican. This valley also has good sightings of lesser cats like the jungle cat and the caracal.

Sultanpur Ki Kui--

This is a lovely road full of tendu trees and is one of the most scenic drive in the Park. The road curls around to Guda and comes back via Phutakot .In the fruiting season of the tendu in March, the sloth bears of Ranthambhore feast along this road. It is a route where wild life viewing is limited, but the diverse landscapes make up for it..

The Amareswara--

About 7 km away from the Railway Station situated on the Fort route, there is a 40 ft. high waterfall between two steep mountains whose water is first collected in a reservoir and then branches out in hundreds of streams as if the holy Ganges has come out of the Shiv Jatas. The soroundings are green and here lies the Shiva Linga under the umbrella of natural rock indented with the continuously falling water on it throughout the year.

Historic Town Sawai Madhopur  --
   
Sawai Madhopur lying on the main Delhi-Mumbai railway line is the Gateway to the Ranthambhore Fort and famous Ranthambhore National Park. The medieval history of the District is mainly the history of
Ranthambhore.

  Sawai Madhopur was built as a planned city by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I of Jaipur on 19 January 1763, who named the township after himself. On 19 January, Sawai Madhopur celebrates its foundation day.
   Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I was the ruler of Indian State of Jaipur in the present-day state of Rajasthan from 1750 to 1768. He was the younger son of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II and ascended the throne after the sudden death of his elder brother. He freed the Kachhawaha Kingdom from the Marathas, won several important battles and chastised the menacing Jat king Jawaher Singh , rewarding Holkar for his help in gaining the throne of Jaipur by giving him the parganas of Rampura and Bhanpura. 1753; In lieu of his outstanding services the much misunderstood Madho Singh I was rewarded the fort of Ranthambhore by the Mughal Emperor.
It is famous for folk arts, especially for the decorative paintings. or mandanas, which adorn the walls of their mud houses. The pet subjects of these mandanas are animals, birds, flowers and village life.

Siwad---

Forty kms, from Sawai Madhopur town  and about three kms. from Isarda Railway Station is the village of Siwad , where the Dushmeshwar Mahadeo
temple, dedicated to Shiva, it is situated Hundreds of people come here to seek blessings of Lord Shiva . An imposing fort situated on a small hill is an added attraction of the place.

The Khandar Fort--

Khandar fort is a very ancient fort located in Khandar Tahsil .The fort has there big entrances , but they are damaged.
Khandar Fort is one of the oldest forts over here. It forms the boundary of Ranthambore National Park. Situated about 40 kilometers from the Sawaimadhopur town. Khandar Fort is perched on a vertical hill, which has protected the fort from various enemy attacks in the past. Thus, the fort was considered as one of the most inaccessible and invincible forts in the state.

Khandar Fort was often called as the ‘Security of Ranthambore’ during the medieval period in India. It is believed that the king of this fort never once lost a battle to its enemy in the past. It is because of this reason; Khandar Fort was always a favorite among the several dynasties across the country.

The fort was initially under the control of Sisodia Kings of Mewar before being taken over by the Mughals. After which, the fort was conquered by the Maharajas of Jaipur during the 18th century. During some period, Khandar Fort was also ruled by the Bargujar Kings and was also attacked by Allaudin Khilji. The damaged walls, doors and ceilings of the fort serve as the evidence of the various historical incidents and battles that took place over here.

Attractions in Khandar Fort
Khandar Fort is home to several beautiful attractions that are definitely worth a visit. The architecture of the fort is a prime example of the rich culture and heritage present in the state of Rajasthan.

There are several old temples situated within the fort that are very popular among both tourists and devotees. The old Jain Temple is very famous for its several skillfully carved idols of various Jain Gurus that are made out of rocks. There is also a Hanuman Temple in the fort, which consists of an idol of Lord Hanuman, carved out of a single stone, with a demon under his feet. Another popular temple in the fort is the Jayanti Mata Temple, which is famous for its annual fair that is attended by hundreds of tourists. The Chaturbhuja Temple is known for its extraordinary idol of the four-armed God. There is also the magnificent Rani Temple, which is situated at the highest point of the fort and consists of several damaged sculptures. Other popular temples situated inside the fort premises that one must visit include Jagatpalji Temple, Bramani’s Temple and Gobind Devji Temple.

Besides several temples, Khandar Fort is also home to two enormous water tanks namely Laxmankunda and Ramkunda. There are also few small ponds in the fort but because of lack of maintenance, only four of them are noticeably visible. Another popular tourist attraction within the fort is the beautiful Hawa Mahal, which is an architectural masterpiece with its delicately carved windows, pillars and arches.

Chambal and Banas Rivers--

Two river systems, the chambal and the Banas are within an hours drive from the Tiger Reserve and can provide an interesting glimpse of riverine ecology. Sixty kms. from Sawai Madhopur, on the confluence of these rivers, is the town of RAMESHWARAM. It has a beautiful Shiva temple where a fair is held on Shiv Ratri.

Chouth -ka Barwada--

A local fair is held at the Chauth Mata temple situated on a hill near Chauth Ka Barwara town .This is a dedicated to the mother Goddess.

Mansarovar Lake and Dam---

Mansarowar Dam is a nice place for boating and fishing. It is situated about 17 kms away from the city on Khandar road. The dam is encircled by a variety of trees making it really beautiful. There is a rest house run by the State Imgation Department

Soorwal Lake

It is about 10 km from Sawai Madhopur railway station, where tourists can see a large number of birds and also enjoy village life.
Visitors enjoying the Lake view.

Devpura--

The distance of devpura is only 12 km from Sawai Madhopur. Here tourists can see black buck, which is not seen in the National Park.

Bhooori Pahari---

It lies on the confluence of the river Banas and river Morel. It is a goo area for trekking and swimming .Here tourists may see authentic village life. Camel and horse safaris are available here. It is 33 kms Sawai Madhopur.

Jiravji Ki Baoli---

Its developed on a beautiful site over the dense mountains of the Ranthambore National Park. This baoli is a part of the temple with a simple rectangular plan and a double storey with pointed arches supported by stone pillars. Also there is a temple attached to it with an open courtyard surrounded by an arcade of multi centered arches.

A beautiful baoli (step well) is hidden in the dense forests of Ranthambore National Park: This structure is beautifully designed in levels. The entrance platform has a façade of Tudor arches, while there are a number of steps to reach the bottom. Steps also connect to side walls in which extrusions and intrusions blocking is done with triangular stairs and niched arches. The main attraction of the baoli is its front portion which has an extruded block in which flat arches are supported by stone pillars with beautiful ornamentations.

References--

1-Ranthambhore beyond Tigres , S.S.Chaudhary.I.F.S.
2-Ranthambhore the impregnable fort , Ranvir Singh.
3-The glory of Ranthambhor , L.S.Rathod.
4-Forts and fortification in India , Ajay Pal Singh.
5-Aetihasik fort Ranthambhor , Dr Archana Tiwari.
6-Forts of Rajasthan , Rita Sharma&Vijay Sharma.
7-Ancient cities and Towns of Rajasthan , K.C.Jain
8-Rajasthan district Gazetteer : Sawaimadhopur, Savitri Gupta.
9-Rajasthan ke pramukh Durg , Dr Raghvendra Singh Manohar.
10-Bharat ke Durg , Chhote Lal  Sharma.
11-Rajasthan ke prachin Durg , Mohan Lal Gupta.
12-Early Chauhan Dynasties , Dashrath  Sharma.Books Treasure Jodhpur , Reprint.1995.
13-Rajasthan Through the Ages., Dashrath Sharma.Raj.State Archives , Bikaner 1966.
14-Shyamal Das :Vir Vinod , B.R.Publication Corp.Delhi, 1986, reprint.
15-Forts and places of India , Prabhakar V.Begde .
16-Shri Ganesh Yatra (Fort Ranthambhore hike )Sawai madhopur , Verma Goverdhan Lal.
17- A History of Ranthambhore , Javed Anwar.
18-Tariq-i-Quila Ranthambhore , Heera Nand Kayasth ,R.K.Saxena.
19-Rajasthan ke Durg ,Dr Ratan Lal Mishra.
20-Rajputane ka Itihas (in 3 part ),Gauri Shankar Ojha ,Jodhpur ,1927.
21-Rajputane ka itihas (in 2 parts)., jagdish Singh Gahlot .
22-Vishva Virasat Sthal Ranthambhore , Dr Suraj Jiddi
23-Ranthambhore : Itihas ke Prishthon par  ,R.S.Ranawat.
24-Sawaimadhopur A Heritage City, INTACH ,Sawai madhopur .
25-History of Rajasthan , Nima Hooja.

Author- Dhirendra Singh Jadaun
Village-Larhota near Sasni
District-Hatharas ,Uttar Pradesh
Associate Prof in Agriculture
Shahid Captain Ripudaman Singh Govt.College ,Sawai madhopur 'Rajasthan ,322001.


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